behind the style

Fortunately im healthy again and already back to work, but still I will have you keep waiting for new pictures because it’s incredibly busy here at the moment and I don’t know when there will be a teeny weeny timeslot for shooting further outfits.

Meanwhile – and to keep you entertained – just a few words about insides.

Another way to distinct real couture from other outwardly nice looking stuff. Take a look at the inside.

• Pictures 1 – 3: Insides of some recently made hats; no fabric-covered flat bottomed styrofoam-thingies but all entirely handsewn hollow shapes or blocked buckram and wire underconstructions created in best millinery tradition, all parts assembled by needle and thread – and NO hotglue!! (Never ever!!)
• Pictures 4 – 6: Inside view of the well worn fluffy little wintercoat and the rococo-jacket with wide collar and pointy cuffs. OK, I must admit, that’s a little pet issue of mine, lining coats and jackets in a quite outmoded way without using a center-back-pleat. Difficult but doable, and unfortunatly much more work than even a conventional couture-style-lining. The benefits: the lining won’t move a tiny bit, so no wear and tear and no bulkyness especially in tight fitting garments, even when using a rather sturdy lining such as cotton satin.
• Picture 4: You see, no center-back-pleat, but also no strain.
• Picture 5: Only some tiny snags on the right shoulder (deriving from carrying handbags), no wear around the armpit. Remember, this jacket ist now several years old and worn really frequently.
• Pictures 5 and 6: You can see the shoulder-seam closed by hand. Hand sewn sleeveseams, and the entire lining set in by hand, as in picture 6.

So the big question is, what is “couture” and “bespoke” really and what is definitely not? Stay tuned!

I’m afraid, that you will have to wait for more fashion-pics, well, longer, because the operator behind camera and sewing-machine is currenly out of order.

First of all, Merry Winter Festivities to all of you – whichever you may celebrate!

It’s been a bit quiet around here lately and I’m terribly sorry for that, but at the moment I’m seriously out of photographic material. Well, of course I’m not out of stuff, that I’d like to show to you!! Yesterday I found a little sparetime, just enough to take some pictures of my latest hat creations.

Here we go!

1. Ikebana No.1:  A little crown-like, Lotusflower made of Sinamay with a crystal ball inside, white ostrich-quills, mounted on a tiny pillbox.
2. Felt Feathers: Entirely made of felt! I took so many photos, so you may have a better look at it’s twisted and futuristic shape. (A recent commission)
3. Swan Lake: Various feathers mounted on a Buckram and millinery-wire base.
4. The Night Sky and Full Moon: Crystals and separate bands made of cotton duchesse mounted on a Buckram and wire-base. Shiny!!

I think, it’s always interresting to show what clothes look like, when they’re not brand new or just worn for a very few times. This particular little wintercoat is now several years old and worn on kinda daily base. For everthing, not only for a nice stroll through the city but also for shopping groceries for example (you know, lifting heavy bottle crates, digging through the vegetables and so on).

So you can see, why made to measure-garments done by a professional dressmaker are almost always a rather costly thing? Look at what you actually get! A wellmade piece that will last you many many years — or even a lifetime, if you take proper care. Of course the material will show some superficial signs of wear after several years, especially under the arms or on the shoulder, when you frequently carry a handbag, but that ist pretty normal. There are no tears, no ripped open seams and – most important – there is no deformation.

Coat made from woollen cloth and high quality fake fur, fully lined with cotton satin, closed in front with hooks and eyes.

First piece of today will be a very wide and very warm long coat made from wollen fabric, high quality fake fur and cotton satin for the lining. It’s cut in Kimono-style and comes with a matching muff. Inspiration is again the fashion of 1910-20.

Today’s second piece will follow in the evening, so stay tuned!