As you already know I’m deeply in love with Fifties and Rococo fashion and currently I try to create a most exact intersection of both of them. This is the second try, number one was the set of two jackets plus skirt, which was still far more on the 18th-century side.

This one’s much more Fifties-style, although the basic pattern is still Rococo! You’ll find a pair of halfboned stays worn underneath and also a puffy petticoat. I could have simplified the pattern on the back of the top part, but I wanted the 18th-century-pattern to remain clearly visible, hence the quite fragmented look in the back. The only modern pattern is the full-circle skirt with some extra pleats for extra fullness above the behind.

All parts are bias-cut and the pattern runs all the way round. Materials are black wollen fabric with tiny white chenille-stripes and pure silk duchesse for the belt.

This years Gala Nocturna in Antwerp/Belgium is coming close and I’m really looking forward to! (I’ve missed it last year, as you might remember.) But this year’s motto “A Russian Fairytale” didn’t really match with my current projects and ideas. But finally I came up with the plan to just put a little mythical creature on my head – and to continue with my outfits as planned.

Here we go, making of a Firebird, styled like a 1950ies shellcap.

1. Millinery mayhem!!!!!!! The blocked and finished hatbase and tons of feathers and scraps cluttering the table
2. Tail assembled and mounted, body sculpted.
3. And now with “arms”.
4. Feathers on the wings  and finally…
5. … birdie is finished!

Better pics will follow.

Meanwhile – and to keep you entertained – just a few words about insides.

Another way to distinct real couture from other outwardly nice looking stuff. Take a look at the inside.

• Pictures 1 – 3: Insides of some recently made hats; no fabric-covered flat bottomed styrofoam-thingies but all entirely handsewn hollow shapes or blocked buckram and wire underconstructions created in best millinery tradition, all parts assembled by needle and thread – and NO hotglue!! (Never ever!!)
• Pictures 4 – 6: Inside view of the well worn fluffy little wintercoat and the rococo-jacket with wide collar and pointy cuffs. OK, I must admit, that’s a little pet issue of mine, lining coats and jackets in a quite outmoded way without using a center-back-pleat. Difficult but doable, and unfortunatly much more work than even a conventional couture-style-lining. The benefits: the lining won’t move a tiny bit, so no wear and tear and no bulkyness especially in tight fitting garments, even when using a rather sturdy lining such as cotton satin.
• Picture 4: You see, no center-back-pleat, but also no strain.
• Picture 5: Only some tiny snags on the right shoulder (deriving from carrying handbags), no wear around the armpit. Remember, this jacket ist now several years old and worn really frequently.
• Pictures 5 and 6: You can see the shoulder-seam closed by hand. Hand sewn sleeveseams, and the entire lining set in by hand, as in picture 6.

So the big question is, what is “couture” and “bespoke” really and what is definitely not? Stay tuned!

It’s been a bit quiet around here lately and I’m terribly sorry for that, but at the moment I’m seriously out of photographic material. Well, of course I’m not out of stuff, that I’d like to show to you!! Yesterday I found a little sparetime, just enough to take some pictures of my latest hat creations.

Here we go!

1. Ikebana No.1:  A little crown-like, Lotusflower made of Sinamay with a crystal ball inside, white ostrich-quills, mounted on a tiny pillbox.
2. Felt Feathers: Entirely made of felt! I took so many photos, so you may have a better look at it’s twisted and futuristic shape. (A recent commission)
3. Swan Lake: Various feathers mounted on a Buckram and millinery-wire base.
4. The Night Sky and Full Moon: Crystals and separate bands made of cotton duchesse mounted on a Buckram and wire-base. Shiny!!

So you can see, why made to measure-garments done by a professional dressmaker are almost always a rather costly thing? Look at what you actually get! A wellmade piece that will last you many many years — or even a lifetime, if you take proper care. Of course the material will show some superficial signs of wear after several years, especially under the arms or on the shoulder, when you frequently carry a handbag, but that ist pretty normal. There are no tears, no ripped open seams and – most important – there is no deformation.

Coat made from woollen cloth and high quality fake fur, fully lined with cotton satin, closed in front with hooks and eyes.

Today’s second piece will follow in the evening, so stay tuned!

First take a pair of front and backlacing stays made from rather coarse linen, then add a woollen skirt in “walking length” — which means ankle-free or even shorter — and don’t forget a pair of nice and cosy knit mittens.You might also add a voluminous petticoat. Combine it with almost any shirt you like. Turtleneck, v-neck with collar, wide neck, long or short sleeves, there are lots of options.

If you like it rather casual, then prefer an unlined jacket made from Chanel-style fabrics with fringed edges and a belt to tie it. For a more dashing look you might like a woollen and entirely lined peplum jacket with cutaway-front, wide collar and nice sharp cuffs.